Once upon a time there was no internet… ha ha, not kidding, Seriously…!! No instant connections! Even cell phones hadn’t made their way center stage yet. But the great Postal Service stood there, reliable, a bedrock of communication — ensuring even every little Jack and Jill could chat with a buddy far away! This
story is from a time when letters came alive with descriptions, feelings… and the keen recipient vibrated with every nuance. When the post delivery could be the highlight of a day — circa 1982. Set in Udupi, a small temple town along the western coastline of South India.
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Kristoffer gazed at the green valley rushing by, palm trees swaying. Rain-swept, everything looked even more lush. The road lay like a cassette tape unwound carelessly. A dark sky grumbled — the sun was playing hooky again. Everything seemed strangely familiar. Yet it was his first time here, on the road to Udupi.
He’d had an amazing trip through India. This was his last stop, before Kris headed back home to Denmark. He wondered what the evening held… Would he find her…? Would they still reconnect…? Udupi he’d always wanted to visit, but also finding his long lost friend, was a hope growing with every step!
They had been 11, writing each other fervently, describing, wondering, asking, answering… He and Komala, his pen pal from Udupi. She’d been his window to a different world — his boyhood years had skipped by, one letter to the next. Grown up, they’d lost contact… But the poignant images had remained, reeling him in to this coastal paradise of her letters.
Kris recalled their “conversations” — why do you say “temple town”, he’d asked… Because it really is a town that came up around a famous 13th century temple, she’d explained. Then had come a legend — one of her many — he thought smiling!
In the 16th century, she wrote, a low caste devotee, Kanakadasa, wasn’t allowed into the temple. Legend had it, his prayers from outside, behind the temple, had been so ardent, the Lord’s idol had magically turned around! News had spread, and pilgrims had flocked ever since, to the rare Hindu temple with the idol facing west, a celebrated back window marking the power of prayer.
Komala had often described the many vibrant festivals — on foundation day, the temple’s main idols were promenaded in huge brightly lit chariots. Thousands lined the street before sunrise, chanting, showering flowers, as bells clanged and men, using long ropes, pulled the juggernauts! The traditional scenes she painted, had mesmerized Kris!
Vicariously through her letters Kris had gathered unripe mangoes on hot afternoons, dodging the pelting rain as it came down in sheets! Through one, he’d floated down river where it met the sea at
Kodi Bengare, watching storks, wallowing in serenity. In another, he’d shared her thrill when in Agumbe, atop the hills, clouds had entered the bus — ticketless, she’d joked!
They’d exchanged a picture each. He’d known intuitively Komala would be just so — beautiful dark eyes and a shy smile!
She’d narrated how Udupi cuisine had originated from her small town — a style of cooking that had traveled way beyond its roots. Here (and earlier in
London!) Kris had tasted the Udupi variety of the rice crepes (dosa’s) and lentil soup (sambar) of her letters! Delicious, crispy, tangy, he’d savored them despite the spicy kick! Fires could always be doused later by sweet semolina (kesari bhat)!
Even Komala’s school stories were colorful! Her history teacher, for instance, doubled as a
Yakshagana artist! In this traditional dance-theater form of Udupi region, performers in resplendent costumes with painted faces, enthralled audiences through the night. So, teacher by day, dancer by night, she’d explained! Had his teacher been half as interesting, Kris sighed, he’d have danced his way through history!
Entering Udupi, he passed signs to Manipal… ah! The global college town of Komala’s letters — the renowned Med School attracted even foreign students seeking affordable premier education! Kris had got used to the notion eventually — Udupi, tiny town centered around its temple, traditions, sported a backyard chock-full of advanced institutes, and
international students! But now getting here, more astounding was how far back in the boondocks, lay hidden this remarkable place with its old temple, famed cuisine, performing arts, and global institutes…! Like a monsoon rainbow, beaming many hued, from an obscure dot on the horizon.
Finally off the bus, Kris asked for directions to the only address he had. Reaching, he peered through the open doorway, deja vu washing over him. Exactly like her descriptions — a Guthu traditional home. Central enclosed quadrangle, around a holy
what a wonderful story and so beautifully written.
-Sukhi
Thank you Sukhi! So happy that you stopped by! The places here are so beautiful, the descriptions hardly do justice. Hope your wanderings might take you that side someday…! Lovely to journey together, thank you for sharing your response!
Awesome…you have touched all the vital characters of the Temple Town Udupi so well. Nostalgia…took me back to my Manipal days.
Thank you Tomy! So glad it brought back some nostalgia for a place you must have also enjoyed! Often times we connect even more with a place lived/visited before! I hope though you’ll continue on this journey to places unknown as well, who knows what treasures you may come across… Thank you for visiting!
In the age of short and to the point instant messaging, it’s so hard to imagine a time of physical letters. These were a heady mix of news, feelings, thoughts, insights and queries encapsulated into one short or long note – one that you could revisit multiple times and relive it. Don’t think any of today’s communication media can capture that.
Oh absolutely!!! You’ve hit the nail on the head, it was a heady mix. And indeed electronic or other media couldn’t come close to the kind of attachment we had with letters. I came from that brood that even got upset if the letter didn’t get folded per the original creases! Thank you for sharing your thoughts — in its own way, the fact that this medium allows the sharing of thoughts between virtual readers, is its redeeming factor!! Thank you!
This was so beautiful. Was this really real ?
Thank you BM. There was a young girl from Udupi who married her long time pen pal from Denmark. That actually happened, from which I draw my inspiration. The rest — his journey, his remembrances of her letters — that was just the medium I chose this time to give a perspective on the Udupi area. ? Loosely inspired as they say. Thank you for visiting!
This story indeed has arrived as one of those old mails wrapped in an envelope with address written in a familiar hand writing! I experienced the feelings of Kris while opening it with trembling fingers and then reading many times to absorb the flavour of rain, serenity and the joy of life mixed with innocence and curiosity.
Thank you! I’m so glad you enjoyed it! From your description, it appears you loved the age of receiving letters! And if I may say so, your poetic comment highlights a must of that time too — pouring one’s heart into the letters! Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts which thrummed with the sounds and images I’d hoped to convey!
As always, a delight to read!!! I love the way you’ve brought out so many aspects… the lost art of letter writing, the history, the mythological background and of course the gorgeous descriptions of the region! Tumba santosh aita amma… ???
Thank you so much Anjali! So glad to liked this! It is indeed a you said “the lost art of letter writing” which is sad. But these exchanges, the sharing of thoughts between friends and strangers, of places experienced, is hopefully another way for connecting…
The narrative is so real that it is a visual unfolding before you.
Beautifully written.
Thank you so much Jyotika, so happy you liked it. They say that when you’ve really loved a place, that love shows through your every expression. Perhaps that love helped here. So glad you paused by here, do keep coming back, thank you!
Beautiful
Thank you so much Rashmi!! Loved that you stopped by here! ?
This is a book and movie in the making. I want to go there as soon as possible
Thank you so much Anu! Loved that concept that you see more in this little story!! Shines the light on your imaginative creative prowess… If you make a movie I’d be delighted to watch it! Thanks for your lovely thought, it prompts a couple more stories set in the places of my travels! Thank you!!! ??