♫”If I were a rich man,
Daidle deedle daidle
Daidle daidle deedle daidle dumb
All day long I’d biddy-biddy-bum…”♬

But where? At Montreux of course! Montreux in the Swiss Riviera, on Lake Geneva, where the rich (and famous!) go — and not just go, but go settle! But why at Montreux? Well, I ain’t rich, but a little curiosity hurt no one… let’s find out!

I get off at Montreux Gare (train station), descend the steps, and voila! there’s the answer, plain as day! Or rather, spectacularly drop-dead gorgeous as day can ever be! The serene expanse of Lake Geneva (French: Lac Léman) lies ahead, so big, so blue, so still… From across, the French Alps look back at me, wondering when I’m going to release that breath I’d sucked in! I’m won, undone… at first breathless Wow!

The deep rich blue of Lac Léman (let’s agree to drown the inadequate English name!), skirted by brooding mountains, a sky that looks like it never knew a care in its life, a fairytale castle on the side, is simply breathtaking. The very air seems purer, everything’s more vivid, the colors have a kind of depth. Yet there’s a wondrous hint, a sublime countering the precise, that sweetspot between dreaming and wakefulness… Surely this is why the rich celebs retire here?

At the hotel my room came with this view, which somehow didn’t also break the bank!! With a glass of wine, or even without, I could sit here for ever…. but the flower-lined promenade, Chemin Flueri, running beside Lac Léman all the way (12kms), begs a stroll. That castle on the eastern edge, Château de Chillon, sunbathed this afternoon, whispers come-hither…

Past gardens and cafes I amble along, visualizing the earliest celebrity recluses, Lord Byron and the Shelley’s.  In 1816, they’d sailed, promenaded, discussed, written here — inspired by these same vistas. Byron’s romanticism had poured

forth into his castle verse-tale, The Prisoner of Chillon. But Mary Shelley sprouted the horror sci-fi Frankenstein here!! Monsters lurk beneath these still waters?! Who’d have known!

En route are also the statue and studios of a more recent Montreux celebrity, Freddie Mercury. Queen’s lead singer, flamboyant Freddie — who influenced whole generations of rock and heavy metal — had once said “If you want peace of soul, come to Montreux”. He had “discovered”  Montreux attending the famous annual Montreux Jazz Festival, and then dropped anchor. Freddie’s lakefront statue is iconic of Montreux — the stillness of Lac Léman and the King of Powerful Voice, rendered bedfellows for all eternity! 😉

Among castles, Château de Chillon may not be spectacular. But by way of location — almost afloat on the vast blue lake, the peaks of Dents du Midi staggered sharply in its backdrop — it vies for the top spot! The castle is quaint, smallish in size, but immense in appeal, with ravishing views the various lookouts provide. Exploring the nooks, murals, courtyards and dungeons of this 11th century Savoyard castle is pure enchantment. 

Just as quaint is Montreux Old Town, right up hill from Lac Léman. Swiss Alpine village, steep

cobble-stone paths, bistros, fountains, charm. There are forests at the edge, with awesome hiking trails! And at every turn, one plays peek-a-boo with sweeping views of Lac Léman and the Alps. From this height  advantage, it is a masterpiece of lighting, shades and dimensions. A magnum opus of The Big Artist!

Next morning, I go west on my darling of a promenade… towards Vevey and the Terraced Vineyards of Lavaux. Of course one can drive, but I want to savor this, step by step, sip by delectable sip 🙂 

A fork in the water?! Delightful! Like finding an unexpected KitKat in that old jacket pocket! The Fork of Vevey is indeed part of the Alimentarium, museum of food, and landmark for Nestlé’s global headquarters. It was in here in Vevey (in 1875), that Milk Chocolate was invented — Hallelujah! The land is Holy as well!! 

Right beside, stands Charlie Chaplin in bronze, Vevey’s most famous resident. Up-street, his lavish estate Charlie’s World, is now a museum. If Montreux felt good — like I-see-why-the-rich-settle-here good — Vevey is even more so!

Montreux is stylish, snazz and all that jazz (literally!). Vevey is the understated rich, quieter, laid back village. Quirky too… Chaplin lived here after all! As did Graham Greene, one of my favorite authors! The two often met, conversed, and creative juices flowed! Maybe that’s why they flock here — for scintillating conversations with kindred artistic souls 🙂

Slightly past Vevey, I’m into the Terraced Vineyards of Lavaux — 800 hectares of vineyards so special, UNESCO protects it as a Heritage Site! These steeply sloping terraces, growing mostly Chasselas white grapes, boast vinicultural histories from the 11th century! Around 400 km of stonewalls support this intricate network of 10,000 terraces, and wine growing is family tradition, handed down generations. 

Hiking through these vineyards is a treat unparalleled! The vineyards plunge sharply all the way down into Lac Léman… miles of undulating greens, varying shades of blue, and the Alps beyond, make this almost a vision divine! My hike goes past the stone walls and picturesque medieval villages of the wine maker families. A chat with a lady at her gate, stays with me long after — “yes”, she’d said ruefully, “we live in paradise!” A sip at the village pub with local cheese, only enhances everything! 

 

My mind, my heart and soul are full and content! Having gathered memories and images of places so astounding, getting a peep into the lives of some of the greatest artists, over unforgettably beautiful walks, has been my wealth! I’ve biddy biddy bummed all day, in beauty, enchantment and in great company. And I can come back anytime for another slice of heaven. But if I luck into a small fortune, I won’t complain, no! I could get used to it! You’ll find me settled then, you know where! 🙂

 

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Notes: The song quoted is If I were a rich man from Fiddler on the Roof

Unless otherwise credited, all pictures belong to the blogger DistantBeckons