For many, Brazil conjures up images of Rio, the Carnival, Samba, and Brazilian style Samba-Soccer!!
And while it does for me too, Sao Paolo gave me another point of reference. A peek into the collage of her people — the indigenous, the colonists, the slaves and the immigrant workers and traders — Paulistanos all, who took the sleepy little town to a booming megapolis! How their rhythms danced through Sao Paulo, shaping her heritage, look and feel, and even her food. Oh, most alluringly her food!! For my memories of Sao Paulo are full of interesting trivia, and sights seen in a pulsating city — yet it’s the flavors that stand out, like the intensified roar after a much needed goal, in their heart-stopping jogo bonito (“beautiful game”).
Like many visitors to Sao Paulo, I traveled there on business. For since the early
18th century, Sampa (as Sao Paulo’s called) has been the powerhouse of Brazil’s booming commerce. But of late, she’s been restless, asserting her identity in other ways too — as a hub of cultural and artistic creativity, with a buzzing nightlife. The city thrums to the new beat, the bold street art, and the many museums! But in the swanky Jardins district of Sao Paulo, some chefs are crafting a new art that piqued my interest: bringing the unique Brazilian indigenous produce — herbs, roots, fruits, flowers, even insects — into haute cuisine!! Yeah, Jungle-to-table, if you like! Spotlight on produce that hadn’t
much seen the light of day, coaxing exceptional flavors from ingredients largely unknown! The results are beautifully exotic, dramatic as any art form, with unforgettable tastes and textures imprinted on your palate.
Yet, as they usher in Brazil’s culinary Renaissance, I’m delighted the
flavors of Sao Paulo follow us through every neighborhood! Nearby Centro is the bustling core of Sao Paulo — truly where it all began in 1554. Here the baroque neoclassical buildings jostle with famed modernistic high rises, reflecting Sao Paulo’s varied story. An amble along Avenida Paulista leading up to Centro is great way to get a vibe of this sprawling, often daunting, city. Over weekends the place throngs with skaters, joggers, tourists and regular townsfolk alike! But walking makes me hungry, and it’s Mercado Municipal de Sao Paulo (or simply Mercadao) that steals the thunder! A massive almost
industrial building (but don’t miss the huge arched stained glass windows!), Mercadao houses rows of
shops with a dizzying variety of meats, fish, nuts, spices, fruits… And on the mezzanine is foodie paradise, endless stalls selling local favorites — please go ravenous! go starving!! Being a bazaar to boot, even the hum of its ambience is compelling — tons of happy food hunters who’ve just struck the lotto!
Right near Centro is another surprising, yet archetypal neighborhood, Liberdade! Historically as Sao Paolo’s businesses prospered, the early residents — indigenous inhabitants, colonial Portuguese and African slaves — needed more hands. So in came waves of immigrants of every stock: Italians, Germans, Spanish, more Portuguese, Greeks, Jews, Mid-Eastern,… and from the early
1900s, the Japanese too. From this melting cauldron, now typically in its 3rd generation, comes your everyday Paulistano! Those Japanese Paulistanos, recreating a slice of home, made Japan Town in Liberdade, a neighborhood brimming with all things Japanese — streets filled with Japanese lanterns, shops, supermarkets, restaurants, and of late, even Manga fan meet-up’s! It makes for an interesting stroll through, and a great Japanese dinner, in the heart of Sao Paulo.
Traveling on business lets you tickle your taste buds at the high end of the dining spectrum, but the weekday company cafeteria provides the whole enchiladas of regular fare. It’s here I got introduced to several of my favorite
Brazilians — pastels (thin pastries with assorted fillings), picadinho (diced meat), Bobó de camarão (shrimp in a purée of manioc meal and coconut milk!), brigadeiros (uhmm uhmm
uhmm!!!)… But if it’s Wednesday, it must be Feijoada, the hands down favorite!! Not just a stew, it’s an orchestra of black beans and Chouriço, loin chops and belly, salted beef, smoked ribs, spices… to slurp till the last drop! Top these with nightly visits to churrascaria, where the best cuts of roasted meat are served Rodízio style (all-you-can-eat), and suddenly your business clothes sit a little too tight!! Those relishable occupational hazards!!
Travelers distracted by her sultry cousin Rio, often overlook Sao Paulo, but she has a wealth of
experiences to offer! Sampa’s cultural offerings by themselves make her a global destination, a happening place. Yet her lush big parks for leisure, jogging, biking and events, amid the concrete outline, gave me pause. Another endearing treat are Paulistanos themselves, warm, gregarious, ready
always for a description or a debate!! As a megapolis, Sampa has its vast disparities, is complex, full of frenetic energy— but with a bit of planning and awareness, it has much character to discover! As Paulistanos say, this is the real city! And to more completely understand Brazil, and her journey, a stop here is a must! As for the gourmand, this is where you’ll find your Holy Grail — most likely in that glass of Caipirinha! Cheers!
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Wonderful post . Most travel advisory sites about Brazil omit the amazing intricate details on São Paulo . Will definitely include this in the itenary
So glad you stopped by here Priyam, and liked it. Yes definitely do include in your itinerary, you’re bound to enjoy the place! I hope this served to whet your appetites! Thank you for leaving me your thoughts!
Your pictures are beautiful! I learned a lot about the city from reading your post. Thank you!
Thank you Charlee! I’m glad this piece was informative for you. Sao Paulo in particular hasn’t been known excite interest until one hears of it from a fellow traveler who’s been there. I’m glad if this kindled some interest. Thank you for your visit and for sharing your thoughts!
Interesting city that has much to offer to her visitors, Loved the street art…. but is the city safe ?
Thank you Manashi for stopping by. You bring up a very valid point – the high crime rate of many cities of Latin America has long featured as a threat to visitors and residents. A combination of factors, economic inequality, gangs, weak law and order control, lead to making this true of Sao Paulo as well. That said, for the most part, being aware of which places to avoid, not being out late and alone, and not being flashy help immensely in having a safe trip in these cities. And in this, it’s the same in many big cities across the world, even those with much lower crime rates. So one shouldn’t be deterred from a trip to these exciting destinations, it should be just fine with some common sense and caution. Thank you for reading, and sharing your thoughts!
Just checked out your blog post — really evocative and educational! Sounds like a real foodie paradise!
Thank you Kitty, it is indeed a foodie paradise! And as they say the proof of the pudding is actually in the visiting and savoring!! Happy travels to you too, and until then happy dreaming of the trip! Thank you for stopping by here.
Another great read – the flavour of the city just pouring through!
Thank you so much Devika! Awesome to see you too caught a taste of the delicious fare!! Thank you for pausing by to share your thought, that’s also a treat of a different kind for me!
Love seeing places through your eyes! Add more photos please – I couldn’t get enough 🙂
Awww! BB! Thank you so much for making my day with your lovely comment! Will, yes will add more pics in the details section!
Wow… another gem! Your writing is a real treat for arm chair travellers like me!!! Very very evocative, I felt like I was with you every step of the way! Looking forward to many many more journeys with you!
Thank you Anjali for your lovely kind words! And you’re hardly the arm chair traveler – unless you carry your arm chair with you on your several-days treks in the Himalayas!!! 😀 🙂 But I do look forward to any journeys with you, the real kind or just here through shared experiences. So much fun! Thanks!
Such fun read! Brazil is on the bucket list, being a food lover, I can almost taste them in your description. Great job!
Yes you must visit Arpita, lots of yummy food waiting there for you!! That apart from many other amazing things that you’ll dig too!! Thank you for your read, and sharing your thought!
Great story! Although I visited Sao Paulo, I only saw half of the venues.
Thank you Cathy, how wonderful that you enjoyed this!! Missing out some sights of any place happens; as they say, leave something for the next trip!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
I thought Sao Paulo was interesting – Gordon lived there for 5 years – before my time – guards outside the house etc – but that nearly 30 years ago. For me it was vibrant and loved the city and the country – the food to die for. Brought back wonderful memories of the city
Thank you for reminiscencing together, Geeta!! Lucky Gordon!! Yes you’re spot on, vibrant is also what I felt! Food to want to go back for! 😅 Maybe again someday… thanks for stopping by!
A post after a break! Does make “Sampa” interesting. Have only known it for the largest number of private armoured cars 🙂
Thank you for reading Anjana!! Yep, that reputation preceeds her most often. While it’s true, for the general traveler with common sense and awareness, One can enjoy Sampa’s many delectable and fun offerings!! Do go sometime! Loved that you shared your thought!