Luang Prabang, Laos…

I’m  sitting in the Dentist’s chair dreading the arrival of the white apron to perform a root canal! The husband suggested a trick, just relax, wander away on a dream, escape from reality! I’ll  try it, I close my eyes…

I’m off in a land far away! It’s an enchanting little town, snuggled beautifully in a valley amidst the verdant hills –  as though protected, in a world all its own. It’s cozy, just four main streets, a peninsula cradled in the arms of two rivers, the big Mekong and the wee one Nam Khan. From the vantage point of Mt Phousi in the center, the sight of the town and surroundings appears almost like an offering … The air is warm, the sounds muted, the fragrance fresh… I know it instinctively, not by a map but by a feel: I’m in Luang Prabang!

Luang Prabang is the definition of The Gentle Life! A pace unhurried, yet not slow. The by-lanes neatly ordered, yet romantic with bungalows of harmoniously blending styles. Every few blocks is punctuated by an exquisite temple. The mud-colored milky rivers flow languorously before joining hands at the northern end of town. Everyone always smiles and nods, and time takes on a new meaning.

Around 30 temples are packed into the old quarter! Taking its name from a statue of Buddha, the Prabang, LP has a special place in Buddhism of the region. The sacred ritual of giving alms to Buddhist monks at day break, is a moving experience of humbly giving respect (and alms), as the monks solemnly file past. And that’s despite some tourists, crazily clicking every fleeting non-expression on the monks’ unchanging visages! ? The temples have intricately gilded walls, ornate interiors and elegant roofs. I unashamedly eavesdrop…standing quietly at the threshold, absorbing the rhythm of their chanting, when my visit coincided with the monks’ prayer time! I fondly retrace my steps to the smaller ones too, catching a glimpse of two novice monks, pondering over something together. I wonder if they are playing a Scriptures scrabble, or just comparing notes – mine is holier than thine!! ?

I am at a romantic bungalow restaurant. The ambience is bathed in light and shadow, the décor reflects their heritages. We’re at the corner table of a lovely pillared terrace – the fragrance of the garden mingles with the hint of kafir lime leaves, lemongrass and Galangal of the delicate Laotian dinner. It’s the kind of night a full moon would smile upon! ? The fascinating aspect of Luang Prabang is the unique way the traditional Laotian and the French colonial influences come together in a sublime mix of form and materials in its architecture. The exquisitely artistic Wats (temples), at the far end of the traditional spectrum, are of stone. Traditional Laotian homes are wooden, while the typically two storied brick homes characterize the European colonials. And then there’s that glorious continuum of styles, wooden bungalows in the Laos tradition, incorporating form and materials of 19th century French style, and vice versa! Dining at these bungalow restaurants is a treat in itself, heritage comes free as a side! And for breakfast we’ll head to the French patisseries – yes sigh! I’ll sacrifice my diet at the exalted alter of embracing heritage!! ?

A short winding ride past paddy fields transports me to the Kuang Si falls. Waterfalls conjure up images of gushing water, a sheer drop, thundering spray – nature’s mighty awesomeness! But Kuang Si lives in the LP neighborhood, it goes with the Gentle theme… pools upon concentric pools of water in varying shades of turquoise, cascading down dainty steps with endless grace! Jumping into the pools here is optional, falling in love is not!!

But more than anything, it is River Mekong which defines Luang Prabang, its pace, its attitude and its character. A muddy-milky Mekong flows with the languor of LP’s many cats, stretch-moving in slow motion on a hot lazy afternoon. Every other lane connects to the river, and the mood spills onto its banks. That expanse of placidly flowing water, against the lush mountains under clear blue skies makes your cares fade away. I take a leisurely ride, boat to myself — maybe I’ll head to the Buddhist caves, or to the whiskey village, or flow down river aimlessly, just because!

Whiskey village?! A village with a rice distillery making a high alcohol content liquid, just a bizzare commercial touristic enterprise. Rows of bottled “whiskey”, each stuffed with a snake, or a scorpion, or a bee are displayed… eww! Gross! The smiling whiskey fellow shoves one close to my face, presumably for a closer inspection, and I dive back to duck…

I hear an annoyed cluck, a firm voice saying, “still please, almost over!” With a jolt, I’m back in reality, at the dentist’s yet, but the root canal’s almost done! I realize again Luang Prabang has the ability to transcend me to a tranquility that charms, soothes, and replenishes the soul! For enchantment, laid-back serenity – that Gentle Life – slip away to Luang Prabang… for real, not virtually! With the right amount of imagination, the images can sustain one even over a root canal! ?

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