We turn the bend, and there she is…! Twirling, skipping, singing “the hills are alaaiiiive, with the sound of myoooosic”. Julie Andrews!! But, the man at the wheel (my newly appointed husband!) drives on, unblinking… OK, so I’m day dreaming, but who wouldn’t?! For the von Trapp family sang, courted, daringly escaped from, all right here —  in Salzburgerland — making up our biggest childhood treats! You know, for you’ve been here too! — at the gardens, the mansion, through Maria’s abbey, and the gazebo where we dreamed of turning 16!

One of the top 10 most viewed movies of all time, the musical The Sound of Music was filmed in Salzburg (and the province of Salzburgerland). Touring the film locations is very popular with tourists to Salzburg.

Soon enough though, Fairytale kicks Hollywood’s butt… the Salzburg skyline is like the cover of my fav storybook! Gentle rows of slanting red roofs, a sprinkling of  domes and spires, the river Salzbach, an unraveled ribbon of blue… The musing giant of a castle (Hohensalzburg), sitting atop the cliff, guarding his city. All framed by the stunning Alps, at no extra charge! I’m brimming with let’s-turn-the-page wonderment, as we amble into Salzburg.

The skyline of Salzburg is out of a storybook! pc: salzburg.info

But, I have a task — (what? honeymoon over already?!!! 😉 ) — the task of finding us alternative accommodation. The current digs is fine, really, but “someone” terms it as “plan B”!! His verdict is we need some place more special! Ach, Ja! I take it on… Piece of Apfelstrudel! 🙂

Salzburg, founded in 798, was overseen by a long line of Prince-Archbishops. They brought in famed Italian architects to design Salzburg. It’s often referred to as Rome of the north. pc: earthtrekkers.com

That book cover didn’t lie! The town is bathed in sunshine and charm! Little cobblestone alleys zigzag, darting surprised into large open piazas with fountains! The 35-bells calliron chimes out overhead. The stunning Cathedral, with its ornate Baroque dome, is almost like a grand center piece! And the views going up to the castle takes your breath away, even if you took the easy funicular ride! 😉 

Hohensalzburg castle, built in the 11th century, is one of the largest mideveal fortresses of Europe.

At every turn there seems a playfulness in the air! The streets are lined with the finest of Baroque and Renaissance buildings… so grand and regal… but at the other end, the high castle plays peek-a-boo like a truant child! Then there’s this beautiful Baroque summer palace (Schloss Hellbrunn), so elegant, so refined… but at stately dinners with the Prince Archbishop, high society guests would get  a drenching, water squirted on them, by trick fountains!! Lol!!! 😀

https://www.hellbrunn.at/en/trick-fountains
Hellbrunn Palace was designed as the summer residence of the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg. Its most unique feature: the trick fountains in the gardens, have entertained many. Built 1615. pc: hellbrunn.at

Another delightful Salzburg original: a series of back alleys, called “Through-Houses” (Durchäuser), connecting the modest houses behind, to the expensive, fashionable main street, Getriedegasse! The big mansions were so tightly crammed on Getriedegasse, oftentimes the alleys had to go right through the rich man’s ooh-la-la house on Main Street!  So… er, your place, or mine? At your place, through mine!! 😉

Houses on Getriedegasse, the most sought after street, crammed in so tightly, no street could be built — except for public thoroughfares right through the rich mansions on Getriedegasse!! 😉 Now these are fun backalleys with shops and cafes. pc: wikimedia

The vibe is almost like Mona Lisa’s enigmatic smile! Like something of incredible classical finesse, yet with a gleeful, almost mischievous, twist. Like Eine kline Nachtmusik (a small piece of night music)?! 😉

Mozart’s Eine kleine Nachtmusik was composed when he was working on the opera Don Giovanni. Its is not known why it was composed!

Mozart grins at me, winking! Now this time I’m not day dreaming! Everywhere Mozart’s mugshot smiles back — from keychains, magnets, trinkets, even fine chocolates! Salzburg celebrates Mozart, their own, home grown wunderkind, in every wondrous way! Mozart’s birth house is sacred pilgrimage to many. And since Mozart began playing/composing when other kids are still struggling to speak, this is literally where his music was also born — his square piano, his first violin, among many other Mozartobelia, on display.

The house where Mozart was born, Mozarts Geburtshaus (left). Mozart kugeln (right) are delectable nougat made of marzipan and pistachios, covered in dark chocolate 🙂

And if its dinner time, it must be Mozart Dinner-Concert time… a most thoughtful wedding gift from our friends! Listening to the soloists and ensembles perform, over a historical menu dinner, at another beautiful palace, Mirabell Gardens, brings our day’s end with a resoundingly glorious crescendo!

Mirabell Palace was built in 1606 as residence for the Prince-Archbishop’s mistress, Salome Alt. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart too has performed here. Today it hosts weddings, concerts and the song Do Re Mi from Sound of Music was filmed in the gardens here.

Uh-oh, we’d forgotten to search for a place…! We return to hotel plan B, thinking ah well, tomorrow, tomorrow…! 😀

Next morning, my friends arrive from Germany, to meet my best half. 😉 And we drive together, east of Salzburg, through picturesque Salzkammergut. I believe  we actually missed a turn somewhere, and drove instead into Paradise….! For Salzkammergut is where even the sun adjusts his color-brightness dials, to beam down just the right accent lighting.

Salzkamergut is a region of Alpine lakes and Alpine salt mines. Pictured above is Wolfgangsee, or Lake Wolfgang, as seen from Gasthaus Thoralm.

Endless sweeps of green meadows and rolling hills, a few craggy higher Alps thrown in to add drama… the turquoise blue lakes, holding absolutely still, lest even a ripple break the spell. An exquisite tapestry that’s at once expansive with striking colors, as it is fresh, luminous and delicate.

Postcard perfect villages dot the lakes in Salzkammergut — in some cases, the postcard would be bigger! Strobl is one of the villages on Wolfgangsee

Quaint, little Alpine villages dot our drive, St Gilgen, Strobl, St Wolfgang… like delectable mini desserts on a sampler tray! And then suddenly… we chance upon it! Our “some place special”, our dream accommodation — there, half way up the mountain pasture, is this solitary little digs, with a sunny deck, Gasthaus Thoralm. And we turn out to be their only guests!

Gasthaus Thoralm is the small cafe/Gasthaus midway up the hill. Situated in Postalm plateau, a large high mountain pasture area pc: Flickr user ahand grafX

Does everyone feel their honeymoon spot was really special?! Or is it just that this place’s so tailor-made for us?! Our days are spent strolling the hills, returning arms laden with wild flowers, listening to the cow bells ring… (amid deep moo’s!). And gazing and gazing, till the cows come home…! And, y’know how folks rave over sunsets… but try sometime, sitting high on a quiet hill, no lights anywhere close, watching a full moon dip very gently, into a lake so a-shimmer, it feels like a scene alive! 

Gasthaus Thoralm is mostly a cafe with a large lovely open deck, for trekkers by the day. They have only couple or so rooms to accommodate limited overnight guests.

When we leave, it is with more vows than we came with! Vows to revisit in twenty years (if we’ve still not killed each other)! 🙂 Gasthaus Thoralm, we’ll be back, in 2020…! This is fulfilling that vow, albeit virtually… for now! 🙂

The extensive pastorals of Postalm are made for trekking and walking. The trails offer views of the grasslands along the rolling hills, and the lakes and mountains in the distance.

Note: Lonely Planet had declared Salzburg (and Salzburgerland) as #1 Top Destination of the year 2020! There, see! Wasn’t just special for me!

Notes: Unless otherwise credited, all pictures belong to the blogger DistantBeckons

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10 Responses

  1. You took me back to one of my favourite places!!
    It is such a beautiful place and your photos are just amazing!!
    That cottage, your special place, and watching the moon even there are no lights around – oh wow!! I’m sure you’ll always think very fondly of that time in that place…

  2. Transported to the lovely sights and sounds so magically described! And Mozart is so beautifully and aptly providing the theme for his native city. This virtual visit is truly inspiring for another honeymoon. Hard to believe that Salzburg is even more enchanting than The Sound of Music.

  3. What a lovely essay for a love affair for the ages – with Salzburg and your then newly-appointed husband. “Your place or mine” seemed like a fitting line for a honeymoon. And loved the visual of alpine villages like delectable mini-desserts on a sampler platter! Thanks for transporting us to a better place and time in wild 2020!

  4. This was simply fantastic! What an idyllic honeymoon destination! Thank you once again for transporting me to these fabulous, magical locales through your evocative writing. Keep writing and I’ll keep reading!

  5. Beautifully written. Made it come alive. Who could ask for a better honeymoon. Lucky you. Hope you get to visit it again soon. Thanks for an amazing article👌👍

  6. My dear fellow wanderer,
    I loved your piece on Salzburg. As usual, wonderful written; so personal, yet so informative, allowing the mind’s eye to see Salzburg through your eyes! And inserting the magical Mozart link was genius!
    I too visited Salzburg a few years ago. Alas, it was just a day trip from Vienna, and so did not get our hearts’ fulfilment of this magical place. Your piece brought back so many memories, and also the promise made with my lovely husband that we would visit again, but make it our base this time around.
    Your blog really inspires me to add on more destinations to our travel list. Hopefully we should be able travel soon! Till then, thanks for letting us on as a third wheel, on your perfect honeymoon!

  7. Beautifully written, captured my thoughts and transported me there. It inspired me hear Eine kleine Nachtmusik – a piece of Mozart’s composition which has been favorite for the longest time. Thank you for inserting the link. That was clever. Everything seems soo perfect, almost unreal. I liked the trick fountains on the way to Schloss Hellbrunn and the Through-houses. So you can peek into one’s living room, kitchen in such houses ? I hope you will get a chance to revisit Gasthaus Thoralm in post Covid years.

  8. My favourite ‘pic’ was ideal honeymoon – returning from rambling ealjs, arms laden with wild flowers. So beautifully written.
    Thanks for bringing the place to us since we cant get there

  9. My dearest friend,

    I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your honeymoon in Magical, beautiful Salzburg.

    Having visited this fairy tale city during Christmas, reading your blog brought back so many delightful memoiries. But I LOVED your writing & enjoyed it more listening to Mozart.
    You re truly gifted …
    Loads of love

    1. You have rekindled my old memories of our younger days. As graduate
      student of TH Karlsruhe, I fancied to visit the Salzburg music festival and
      Don Giovani in the Rock opera, but tickets were so expensive, that it was beyond means of a poor student, So the plan was shelved for later days , which never happened,
      In my office of Hoechst I had a painting of a famous artist, name I have forgotten of Salzburg with the high hills crowned by Salzburg schlosscastle, with a cathedral in the plane and the famous bend of Salzbach in foreground in combination of green an blue colors in various shades, it was heavenly, on my leaving Hoechst I had presented to a good friend as a parting gift., i do fondly remember.
      Thank you for reminding me of olden days and a city, so close to my heart.
      Keeping writing, we are waiting or the next blog,
      Good luck, Masho.

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