Now in my senior years, I spend my afternoons in quiet repose. Content to leave the younger ones to monkey around. From my perch at the edge of the 
forest, I gaze lovingly at my home — tall trees with long tangling vines, high above a lively brook. They call this lush expanse the Sacred Monkey Forest, and I agree! I peer down at the usual throng of human visitors, perhaps they find us monkeys entertaining…?!
We have a special relationship with humans — our key to easy food! But despite our antics (sometimes “cheeky monkey” cute, but sometimes downright wicked lol!), the Balinese humans regard us as sacred — I’m so thankful to Hanoman, the Hindu monkey-God, revered as a symbol of strength and courage.
So here in Ubud, the spiritual soul of Bali, we roam free, get food, even doctors’ visits! And with over 300 of us macaques living free in this semi-wild forest, the circus is always on!
My favorite time of day though, is daybreak. When it’s cool and I lope to where my fancy will. Often to a temple, hundreds here in Ubud. There’s a special aura about temples at dawn…
A moment when everything is just right — the sun straining through a sieve of dewy foliage, the sounds of flowing water filling the silence. The folk making their offerings in piety, step by traditional step.
The scene is stilling, even for a restless monkey! I revisit many times to see if the wonder will get recreated — and it never disappoints!
Honestly, all Ubud feels temple-like at morn! Every entrance to every home and shop, even every car and moped, washed clean, the daily offerings (canang sari’s — little palm leaf trays with flowers, petals, incense) placed for the day!
To me Canang (meaning “beautiful purpose”) Sari (meaning “essence”) almost symbolizes the Bali way of life. It’s not just a daily ritual, but an article of faith. Its simplicity is lovely to the minutest detail. It is centered in Nature and our gratitude for all of her blessings!
The underlying Balinese belief is, it’s a fragile web that connects all living beings together, and everyone has a duty to protect it. And yes, each year, our forest also sees a big celebration of Tumpek Kandang, the festival to honor animals. Any wonder I love my home so…?! 🙂
During the day I bound about the maze of Ubud — just the everyday streets and homes… ! Ubud includes 14 sleepy villages surrounding Ubud town, a dreamy mesh of temples, paddy fields and traditional houses. The 15th century exodus of artists, musicians, craftsmen and priests, from a declining Java Hindu kingdom, gave Bali her unique heritage — Ubud being her cultural core.
The name itself, derived from ubad, means medicine. As many traditional healers, wellness spas and yoga nooks here, as art villa’s, cafés, and local markets… so many delightful ways to lose your bearings, yet find yourself! And the homes…? I peep, I pause and I sigh. Were I a human, I’d live in a Balinese traditional home.
The courtyard is where the family action takes place. It’s dotted with bale‘s — open pavilions, most often wall-less! — for sleeping and such. Fragrances mingling, oneness with nature is the focus. A gate shrine just inside the main door, keeps the privacy in and the evil spirits out! And in all my jaunts through Ubud, I’ve yet to meet a mundane main door!
Gorgeous as they are though, I never get the oddity of leaving it slightly open, giving you just a hint of the interior… surely that’s monkey tease! It’s these inviting curbs and tantalizing doors-ajar that make me Curious George! Next life (yes when the wheel of my Balinese karma turns things around!) I’ll get my sweet revenge!
No ode to sunset?! Well, we don’t vie with Uluwatu (southern tip of Bali), and their cliff side views of the sun dipping into infinity. But even without a coastline Ubud offers glorious sunsets over paddy fields (but of course!) and the birds flying home!
Make that thousands of birds — like really thousands! In the little hamlet of Petulu, as the evening turns the neon green to darker hues, whole hordes of herons (kokokan) fly in for the night. From all over the island, squawking for prime realty, onto just a few trees of this little village. They didn’t always come here to hunker down, but started to, one fine dusk in 1965…
Why? For no apparent reason! Some say the herons are the lost souls of thousands killed during anti-communists massacres of those years. Others say they’re protectors of the village and bring good luck — they did bring in tourists!
Many theories, but no one really knows what brings them back everyday. Makes for a unique sunset, but I don’t visit Petulu much — why, for sure, I wouldn’t even get a paw-hold in there!
Meanwhile from my perch, I overhear this couple strolling below. She must be a travel blogger, her eyes light up when her mate asks if she’d write about Ubud. She says slowly “You know… Ubud is a traveler’s trap! For now suddenly you want to put aside the suitcases — you want to settle down, and grow roots! Ubud makes a wanderer turn into a resident, with kittens, houseplants, taxes and all!”
I lie back and mull this over — there’s the answer I was seeking: why the herons keep coming back, why I want to be reborn in Ubud, why the door waits invitingly ajar… this warm, lush tranquility, feels like coming home — to many! For others too, lying back on the day bed, watching butterflies flit through the field, a fresh fruit near at hand, feels like being home at last!
Scroll down to leave your thoughts… they’re awesome to have! Name, email are not necessary, but welcome either way! 🙂
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Hi, such a great blog, thank you for sharing and i cant wait to read some more. Thanks again
Hi, this is a great blog and i always look forward to the information you post here. Thanks again
Okay could see all photos now. Those entrances are so very enchanting. No wonder Liz Gilbert found “love” there
Thank you BM for rechecking back for all the pictures to load, sometimes even technology needs our patience! Liz Gilbert does cover Ubud nicely through her book. When you visit Ubud though, the places, people and the activities are so much more multilayered and genuine, you forget the book entirely!! Thank you again for stopping by. 😊
This writing and photography is beautiful. Your words made me want to grow my roots in Ubud and I haven’t even been there.
Love the entrance, do you have more such photos ? I couldn’t see all the photos, will do so again later in the evening.
Thank you very much BM!! So happy if my pictures and descriptions make you feel like you know and love a place you haven’t visited!! And I’m very sure, Ubud won’t disappoint you, when you do end up there! So happy you could join me through my travels, and thank you for rooting for me! 😊
So you became a monkey in this blog ! Definitely a good life in Ubud … loved reading the post and the beautiful pictures. Very peaceful and tranquil.
Thank you Manashi, so glad you stopped by here!! You will quite love Ubud, it’s exactly like my pictures which you enjoyed, and more! There are also very quaint accommodations to be had at reasonable prices, set amidst the paddy fields, up quaint winding roads, in traditional Balinese style homes! The whole rustic feel had me wooed… at times Ubud reminded me of how the Hindu God Raam’s kingdom is visualized to be… small roads, quaint villages, peaceful lives, people going with baskets on their heads to the temple… like scenes from the amar-chitra-katha illustrations of our childhood! 🙂 Thank you for visiting!
I was captured by the photos and your description of slightly ajar entrance doors at Ubud. Wonder what could be the local tradition behind that collective behavior? It reminded of doors I saw in historic Philadelphia
Indeed Diya, they had me captivated too — hence the many pictures! I’m not sure why the doors were ajar, it could well be that they were just coincidentally slightly open when I was passing, or that these traditional Balinese homes were either art galleries, spas, wellness centers or bed-n-breakfasts…! For many such establishments are in these lovely houses! Having the most amazing doors though is definitely part of Balinese tradition, every single home vies for the top spot in curb appeal — and we all benefit!!
Thank you for sharing your thought!!
Beautifully written! We will be in Bali in May. I will certainly visit the sacred monkey forest!
Thank you Pooja!! So happy if this helps plan your trip around Ubud. Bali is much bigger and has much to offer, Ubud is more interior, magical, mystical…! The Sacred Monkey forest is famous and gets a ton of visitors, but the monkeys are quite aggressive! You must be absolutely sure to have no food in your backpack, nor pocket for a trip that won’t scare your little one! It’s a gorgeous place though, and many little children do come and have a delightful experience! More than Ubud town itself, I loved staying and straying through the villages that also make up Ubud – to my mind that is what I’d go back for. Have a wonderful trip, and thank you!
This is beautiful and has brought back so many memories.The way you have written this makes me want to go back and see the places I missed.
I visited Ubud in 1974. The place we stayed was surrounded by paddy fields. I remember the oil lanterns, the sound of the crickets, the smell of the bitter leaves…
I long to visit Ubud again, a shining memory of my childhood.
Thank you for writing this and bringing me back home!
Naina, this was such delightful recounting of your memories! 1974!! That’s ages back! I’m sure you’ll find many many changes, even in a place that seems as timeless as Ubud! While many modern amenities make very decent guesthouses in Ubud, they are still edged by fields, and you wake to the sounds of the scarecrow man, shooing away the birds!! 🙂 While nostalgia can never be truly recreated, I’m sure you will still have a very special experience!! Thank you so much for sharing your lovely memories here❣️
Bali from an unusual perspective. So calm and meditative. Rising up in my bucket list :-).
I know your bucket is full of gems, but this one should really float up to the top! And like you guessed, Ubud is the other side of Bali (the inside kinda) — not the beach resorts and surfers paradise Bali, but the more traditional interior, artsy village ambience, bohemian and quaint. So happy you stopped by here to give your perspective! Thank you! 🙂
I want to be on the next flight to Ubud! Such peace and tranquility , beautiful houses , the feeling of being on the same page with nature…fascinating and truly peaceful. Thank you for taking me with you on this journey to Ubud.. As usual and as always, a wonderful treat for the senses! As I always say, keep writing and I’ll keep reading!
Thank you for journeying along, that’s always the most precious part of these journeys!! Indeed Anjali, Ubud is every bit as tranquil and beautiful as you can imagine — but you plan on taking that plane soon — imagination time out! I’m very certain you will love Ubud and its ambience. Thank you for sharing your thoughts, and wish you the happiest of trips too!!
The travelogue on Ubud is an invitation to return! Lovely pictures!
Thank you so much Dr Sur! I’m glad it brought back your own memories and a wish to return… indeed Ubud has that ability to keep beckoning us back. Very happy you liked my pictures! Thank you!
Yet again you have created that beautiful canvas with your words and pictures that resonates deeper.
“At the end of the day
like the faint sound of dew drops
the gentle dusk creeps in.
Even the eagle takes a pause
dusting the last rays off her wings.
With the colors of the day now gone
Scripts whisper stories as the fireflies dance on…
All the birds are now back home
All the rivers have ended their journey
The darkness engulfs the surrounds
As she only stays to connect you to eternity”
(A translation of the last paragraph of Bonolota Sen by Jibonanondo Das)
I am beyond amazed! And humbled!! That translated verse is so beautiful, and so completely fits this tropical sunset, with the returning birds, fireflies, and eagles with sun rays on their wings…!! And so humbled that this trivial piece on Ubud, brought that beautiful verse to mind, for you! Thank you very much for stopping by, and sharing such emotive lines, that leave one gazing dreamily long after the sun has gone…!
Oh the call of Bali… it’s been humming for a while, but with this pitch, it just reached crescendo!!!
Love it!!!
So happy if this helps reel you in to Bali, and even more so to Ubud! Thank you Arpita! Do heed to that call from the tranquil depths of Ubud, the experience is quite unforgettable! And if you’re looking for that retirement town, this is it! I’m sure you’ll have feelings similar to mine! Thank you for leaving me your thought here!
Beautiful as ever and transorted to a Bali I did not see ( our experience was not good in Bali – we were in a hash run in Sanur staying st the inns grand beach hotel) one day I hope to see Bali as you saw it
Thank you Geeta! Yes Bali can be lots of different experiences, over multiple trips. But I’m sorry your experience was not good, hope it wasn’t because of the hash run! We’ve had the typical Bali beach vacations that were very nice too, but I wanted the piece to be just about Ubud, because this was a place so unique, I feel in love with the beauty and tranquility! I do so hope you have a chance to build lovlier memories! Thank you for pausing by here to share thoughts!
Wow really beautifully written love the way you have described it.
Thank you Rashmi! So heartening to hear — we could all do with extra dozes of beauty in serenity! Glad you could stop by here amidst everything else, I treasure your thought❣️