The Old-city walk any place is the icing on a traveler’s cake! And all of them are unique… but some are more unique than others! Here, Walled City Jerusalem claims a league all of her own! Most discussed, hotly debated, nothing new can possibly remain to be said … still, sharing as I catch glimpses of why she’s unmatched.
Just for starters… Old City Jerusalem, among the top Holy’s of three major religions… at the very core of our world’s geo-political tensions… among the ancientest, longest-inhabited cities…!! Not a pilgrim, you say… nor a history-buff? No matter! There’s something so compelling about Jerusalem’s Walled City, it grips anyone! Come, let’s go!
Crossing an upscale shopping avenue, we enter Walled City through Jaffa Gate.
And poof! We’re hurtled back to the 16th century, marveling at the historic walls and this medieval gate! Of course old-city itself is much older — scholars believe King David made Jerusalem the capital of the Jewish kingdom in 1000 BC. Since then, it has been conquered, lost, reconquered, re-fallen countless times… betrayals, revenge, hate, faith, love, kings and empires, this plot has it all… like any current fantasy drama series, every twist and gory bit happening for real, down the ages!
As we walk on, it gets more confounding — so much to absorb, all at once! Large-stone paved paths, arched passages… unending rows of shops with colorful, attractive displays… the general hullabaloo interspersed by background chimes or a call to prayer. But most of all, the people! People 
of every cut and creed – pious pilgrims, casual tourists, locals with families, clergy in traditional garb, soldiers with guns — all form this busy, intricate mosaic! Yet, this kaleidoscope of sights and sounds is set against a uniform limestone backdrop! Every building, wall, beautiful arch and pavement the same gold-tawny hue, lending a sort of serene balance! So starkly at odds with the centuries of turbulence these pathways have seen!
Before we know it, we’ve crossed the Armenian Quarter, and are into the Jewish Quarter at the security check point leading down to the Western Wall! As we’re frisked and scanned by Israeli Security, I’m struck by the irony — that it’s just natural and expected, for a place of worship to have the tightest security! Indeed, the caliber .45 ensures everyone in this .35 sq mile area, prays peacefully together!
I queue up to wish at the Wailing Wall, the only remnants of Judaism’s holiest, the Second Temple. As I wedge my prayer paper into a crack in the Wall, 
amidst hundreds rapt in prayer, I feel the full force of Faith… a force to reckon with! Be you a believer or non, an other-believer, or what-have-you, collective raw emotion this close, is a powerful thing! I retreat, quite moved!
Right behind the imposing Western Wall, dazzles a colossal, golden dome. The Dome of the Rock, standing where the Jewish Second Temple once stood — on Temple Mount, a hill venerated by Jews, Muslims and Christians alike. Unfortunately a visit is
not possible (restrictions), but this spectacular monument, contains the Rock commemorating Prophet Muhammed’s ascension to heaven… and you guessed it, is an Islamic holiest of holies. As I take it all in, I’m appalled, for once, by the proximity of the must-see’s of an old-city! Whoa! Even for plain real estate, this close would spell trouble! Now put religion in the mix, and we’ve got ourselves a tinderbox!
Yet there is still more!! Just a few steps away in the Christian Quarter is Via Dolorosa! The staggered path through which Jesus is believed to have made his tortuous way up, bearing the cross to his crucifixion. Paradoxically, Hollywood (Ben Hur, The Greatest Story Ever Told,…) helps visualize as we cross the stations of the Cross. Where
Mary wept, where Simon helped with the cross, and where the stone-wall bears the hand print, supposedly of Jesus, as he stumbled. Much of this is recorded history, with some fables layered on. I’m not even pious, yet I feel goosebumps! What stirs me is the significance of this path and its events, and the impact
it has had on the world! I try recall any other pathway quite like this, and come up blank…! It’s a sobering thought.
Yet while the movies bring back vivid images, something’s different! Same stone path, same arched via Dolorosa, but hey! how did they hide all the shops?! For this path is flanked by shops all the way, their wares vying for attention! Lovely no doubt, yet strangely out of place! Or… are they? Perhaps Commerce is the modern day God of all Things…? Just another irony of Old-City Jerusalem!
We end at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a beautiful Romanesque-Baroque church built in the 4th century. The holiest sites of Christianity — the Cavalry (where Jesus is believed to have been crucified), and Aedicule (the empty tomb where He’s said to have been buried) are here. Plus the Slab of Anointing, where Jesus’s
body was prepared for burial. Controlled by many Christian denominations, including the Roman Catholic, Greek and Coptic Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, this church has many features that are simply amazing. Yet on the front façade is a ladder so incredibly curious, it steals the thunder!
A mason’s ordinary ladder, set on a window ledge in the 1750’s (at least!) has now become known as the Immovable ladder!
It cannot be moved because folks can’t agree what’s to be done with it! An understanding, the Status Quo, decrees no alteration can occur on the shared Holy Sites, without agreement of all controlling denominations. Daily religious services are held by common consent, yet this ladder remains a bone of contention and up there… for over 260 years! So unbelievable, you’d think it’s some fake story gone viral! Check for yourself… better still, in person, by the walk of a lifetime!
There are many more awesome stops in Walled City! Cardo showcases the archaeological remains of a Roman market place from the 6th century! Golden Menorah, made of 24-karat gold, is a
reconstruction of the original lamp from the Jewish Temple. But sadly, our time’s up… I’d have loved to stroll the postcardly back alleys some more, to browse the shops and cafés, to savor its four different quarters. Oh, and to have idled couple hours people-watching! As we drive away, my last glance is of Jerusalem nestled on the hills, stunningly set aglow by the evening sun – the Golden City, an unforgettable beauty! I struggle to sum it up… intense, charged yet holding on to a fragile coexistence, flawed yet a Hope, a tragedy and a triumph. At the epicenter of this interconnected mesh, our world! Why, if I were an Inner-City, I’d be the one in Jerusalem!
PC: unless otherwise credited, several pictures are thanks to RS 🙂
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GALLERY:
Scroll down to leave your thoughts… they’re awesome to have! Name, email not necessary, include or not, as you wish! Thank you! 🙂
Really loved this post. It was like I was walking along with the writer!
Lovely photos too…
Apart from being able to ‘see’ the city through the writer’s eyes, I was fascinated by the musings – such as how the shops were hidden from us in the movies. 🙂 And absolutely amazed by the knowledge of history of the place. Because of that the write is able to give us the real feel for how this place is truly unique.
Thank you Sonali, so happy to have had you along for this walk!! Even if we were not literally together, just sharing this experience, and the exchange of our musings, enriches my experience as well. The history of this region is indeed quite overwhelming! Thank you so much for your kind words, and your visit!!
What a beautifully evocative travel essay! Your keenly observant and appreciative eye brings Jerusalem to life. Your photos are spectacular, too, illustrating the vivid history, people, monuments and unique juxtapositions of religion. Thank you for pointing out the irony in being frisked by armed guards on the way to a peaceful rumination of history and place – with the humor and humility that pervades your writing. You have put Jerusalem high on my travel list!
Thank you so much Soni! Most definitely put Jerusalem high on your list. I have to admit, by some not-really-reasoned-out thought, Israel and Jerusalem, hadn’t been on my bucket list. For us, this trip just kind of happened!! But while there, I thought several times, my God, why wasn’t I here by plan, by sheer logic — because it is so unique and historic and has such a wealth to see and experience! Meanwhile I’m so happy you stopped by and and shared a thought!
I loved this posting on Jerusalem. Very well written and captures the essence of the holy land – the birth place of three major religion.
I loved the story of the immovable ladder – only reflects on mankind’s preoccupation with senseless power issues/struggles.
Well done !
Thank you so much!! So glad you stopped by to read, and even more that you shared your thoughts! Yes, the story of the immovable ladder is symbolic at so many levels!! Indeed much of Jerusalem is a microcosm of the state of our world! Thank you for encouraging me on!
Your writting is so lucid and vivid that make me think why have i not been there in Israel. The wooden ladder makes me curious how it is possible. Lastly i admit you are the person from whose writting i know something about the oldest city Israel.
Thank you dear Bubul!! Gives me great joy to have brought some flavor of Jerusalem to you! Yes, imagine! — from the time of Robert Clive, through the entire British Raj, and Independent India…. through all that, the ladder has stayed put up there!! Unbelievable, isn’t it?!! Thank you for sharing your thoughts, and my joy 🙂
Brilliant! Superbly crafted and oh so evocative in true DB-style! All your travel blogs are so well written that I’m in danger of becoming a well seasoned arm chair traveller! You write so well …keep writing and I’ll keep reading!
Thank you dear Anjali, that was music to my ears!! When someone says “I’ll keep reading”, they provide all the impetus for a struggling wannabe blogger. I’m so very glad you enjoyed, but I do hope you’ll not take to the armchair literally 😀😀 For when you travel, you also produce such wonderful stories!! Thank you so much!
Beautiful!
For millenniums the word “Jerusalem” remains synonymous to ultimate human passion. The never ending cycle of love, agony, conflict and hope, the myth and modern time in a deadly embrace!
As always your beautiful mind searched and touched that Jerusalem!!
Thank you, and so very beautifully put!! “The never ending cycle of love, agony, conflict and hope, the myth and modern time in a deadly embrace!” That sentence sums it up so poetically, I am sure you write!! Or at least there’s a writer, a poet in you!! Thank you for reading my humble offering, so very glad it struck a chord in you. Thank you!
Beautifully put! We felt the same, so fragile, yet so intertwined and peaceful.
I wondered about the different Menorahs. Mostly 6, some are 9 and a few 11s!
Thank you so much Arpita, indeed, so rightly said! 😍 Your note on Menorahs made me dig up some info! They are typically 7 candles, 6 branches and the stem. Particular for Hanukkah they light up the 8 branches Menorah, called the hanukkiah, whose stem forms the “helper” to light each candle on the consecutive nights. All have symbolic meanings, for each number of candles etc. So much to know, behind everything, isn’t it? So typical and fascinating of that whole region! Happy you enjoyed, thank you for your company through my meanderings. And the joys of exchange!! 🙂🙂