Our hands intertwine. Because it’s that kind of a moment. The daylight is mellow, the evening yet hesitant, shy but yearning. There’s a kind of hush, the flagstone path beckons…

The buildings are minimalistic, sublime

The temple seamlessly blends with the mystical outdoors, and everything is still  — keen as though to catch every sigh of the garden beyond.

I’d discover later, this was a moment like any other at Shōren-in, Kyoto’s oft-overlooked 13th century Buddhist temple. And it’s just one of Kyoto’s many many enchanting temple’s and gardens…

More delightedly I would learn Kyoto is constantly, at every turn, mesmerizing with a romanticism that can turn even the most practical-minded into a complete gooey mush!

We get a little lost that evening… no clue where we are, yet the unfamiliar itself is the

Quaint lit up eat houses. Restaurants will often have menus in pictures & 3D! Sometimes they’ll also have the low traditional tables with pillows to sit on (zashiki)

allure… Little tea houses blink out at us, the alleys zigzag in shadows, neighborhoods ooze loveliness, and a full moon (no less!) beams down amore…

Somewhere the sensible in me registers we were utterly safe in Kyoto — the rest’s all tugged away by the charm tide…

Much later Google maps would verify we’d been through the amazing by-lanes of Gion… Oh! Gion of the Geiko’s! (Geisha are known as Geiko in Kyoto) — Where they

Glimpse of a Geiko (Geisha) in Gion Source

entertain guests in wooden tea houses decked in their painted faces and special kimono’s!! While we don’t bump into any, we’re entertained alright! Ambling through Gion has been like walking in one of those old art movies…! Narrow lanes cloaked in mysterious half shadows, somewhat dreamy… almost from an age long past, an age of Samurai and Geiko…

And then we stumble onto the riverside… and tumble into love again!

River Kamogawa – its banks are popular for walking/ sitting by in summer. Restaurants with balconies line the river

For the calm flow of a river through any city is romance inducing, and the Kamogawa is no different! Gentle, soothing, inviting you to sit a while. When lounging by Kamo’s quiet banks, it’s customary to keep a distance from the next couple. The curious thing is the space between couples always stays uniform, even as the crowd increases — in Japanese called “the law of regular spaces”! While the natural explanation is “personal space”, I’m tickled by the folksy one that explains this as ghosts or spirits, sitting between the couples!!  ?

The many laid-back restaurants with decks, and casual cafes by the river, make it also a cool place to hang out with friends. Our impromptu date night continues, sipping a drink, people watching, soaking in the ambience…

In the cold light of the next morning, sheepish at having been so ridiculously smitten, we set off to do the sights with a renewed determination — we’ll be charmed yes, but swept away not! Kyoto smiles and Cupid winks…

At Kinkaku-ji, the Golden pavilion, we’re prepared for a gorgeous golden Zen temple dating from 1397, which started as a Shogun’s retirement home!

Kinkaku-ji, a world heritage site. A crazed arsonist set it on fire (1950), but it has been completely restored to its original glory.

But this vision of tranquil symmetry in gold, shimmering on a lake, against the dark green hills, with everything hanging just in perfect balance, tears at my carefully constructed defense!

Dazed we move on to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion. And that’s where all rational thought

Dry sand garden at Ginkaku-ji

leaves me! This Zen temple too, inspired by Kinkaku-ji, began as a Shogun’s abode for repose.  Here the jaw-dropping backdrop seems as if in a slow Waltz …the sand garden glides into a mossy grove, then ponds and islands, then bridges, flowers, finally crescendoing up a wooded trail on a small hill… the flow is spectacularly graceful. And in the midst, the wooden Silver Pavillion rests, brooding as though, at this mystical ballroom.

Ginkaku-ji, the “Silver Pavilion” – It’s so named due to initial plans to cover its exterior in silver foil. The Olin war delayed the overlay work so long, that plan was never realized

Indeed Ginkaku-ji is so heavenly, it inspired a new cultural wave, the Higashiyama culture — when all across Japan, the arts developed and refined, including tea ceremonies, flower arrangements, garden design and architecture.

Sighing, we saunter on to a walkway and any sanity I’d retained is crushed, humbled to submission at

Philosopher’s Path Source

the Philosopher’s Path. The  guidebook described it simply as a 2km stone path along a canal, lined with hundreds of cherry trees. Say rather “touched by a magical wand, bathed in a concoction of love potions and lyrical poetry”, and you might just come close…! I’m actually thankful we’ve narrowly missed

The beautiful Philosopher’s Path gets its name from Nishida Kitaro, a famed philosopher, who practiced meditation while walking this route daily. Source

the peak blossom season — for surely I’d have buckled over and wept!! Cupid brings out his biggest ammo here, and our surrender is total! We’re besotted by everything Kyoto!

So is Kyoto romantic because of its beautiful Zen temples and Japanese gardens? While they certainly contribute, the romanticism of Kyoto is unveiled in so many more ways… it’s in the traditions, the legends, the folklore… In the unique and the quaint… In glimpses of couples in traditional costumes. Along cobbled lanes, between wooden buildings, sloping steeply up a hill…

Ninenzaka, near Kiyomuzudera is a quaint street lined by wooden houses & old world charm Source

Where romance is an aura, tangible even through

Whimsy Tanuki, symbols of good fortune

etiquette and aesthetic appeal. Where grace and charm are as intrinsic to the city as the modern day bustle. It’s in these glimpses and moments you constantly come across, from a world of symbolism and the mythical. Where the bamboo groves creak whispering, their hands reaching skyward, intertwining. Because Kyoto is ever brimming with those kind of moments.

Arashiyama, the bamboo forest at the northern edge of Kyoto, named by CNN one of the most beautiful groves on earth

Gallery

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25 Responses

  1. What a fantastic description of a dreamland! Lyrical narrative of an experience rather than a place. Looking forward to at least a brief glimpse.

    1. Thank you so much Amit!! So glad you read this, and paused to share a thought!! Would be delighted to know how you find Kyoto, in what different (or same!) ways it pulls at you! Enjoy your trip! Thanks!

    1. Thank you, really appreciate your feedback. I did also check out your blog site, and it looks very interesting to me. Thanks for pausing by here.

    1. Thank you D! Happy this made you also reminiscence, perhaps also romanticize, as you too mention the mystery of Kyoto…! 😊 So glad you stopped by, and left your thought!

  2. Reading this made me want to visit Kyoto at the earliest.
    Absolutely love the photos! And the descriptions.
    I liked the part where you try to analyze where the romanticism is coming from as well…

    1. Thank you Sonali! I’m sure you would enjoy Kyoto as much as I did! You might even time your trip to coincide with the blossoming of the Cherry Trees – although it is indeed the busiest tourist season! Happy trip, and thank you for reading and pausing to share your thoughts.

    1. Thank you Devika! That’s truly heart-warming!! Like you suggested, Love! Kyoto causes a kind of involuntary effusion of sorts… the charm and beauty stir one to gush, in both senses!! ? Thank you for stopping by, and for sharing your thought!!

  3. Particularly loved the picture and description of “Philosopher’s path”. A philosopher’s path is always romantic as it romances with time and eternity – looks like Kyoto shared that mystery with you.

    1. Thank you!! It appears you must have also enjoyed the beauty of the Philosopher’s Path first hand — to be able to transcend from the scenic and romantic, to the philosophical with such ease! Thank you for pausing by, and for sharing your lovely metaphysical thought!

  4. Beautifully put! Actually coming down from the temple stairs, we literally got lost and loved the unintended exploration of the city, simple, peaceful and so quaint!

    1. And isn’t that a beautiful way of exploring and getting a feel of a city – by getting lost?! I love such experiences, and looks like you enjoyed it too, Arpita! So glad! Happy if this brought back a good memory of a city you enjoyed too! Thank you for reading, and for sharing!

  5. Nice. Liked your description of Philosopher’s path and quaint eat houses with 3D menus. Japan is a fascinating country. Perfect !

    1. Thank you! Yes indeed, Japan is fascinating, and there are so many unique and quaint features like the ones that piqued your interest, that make it special!
      Thank you for stopping by, and sharing your thoughts!

  6. Oh… you’ve done it again!!! Written another fantabulous travelogue! Thank you for taking me through Kyoto… your writing is so very evocative ! Loved it!

    1. Thank you Anjali! So glad you journeyed with me and enjoyed it as well! Your comment has a special place in my heart, as you know I love your evocative writing too! Thank you!

  7. Anjana – agree with DistantBeckons. Even if you are a solo traveller, Japan fascinates with its myriad contradictions of tradition and the uber modern. I would go back over and over again.

    Lovely article and great pics too!

    1. Shonali, yes you’re so right! Japan is fascinating at so many levels! Let’s go back together, taking Anjana with us!! Thank you! If You liked my pics, I’m flattered beyond measure, as I consider you the maestro! Thank you for stopping by.

  8. I so enjoyed my vicarious trip via your KYOTO TRAVELOGUE.
    You are my very own Liz aka Eat Pray Love.
    What beauty you have unveiled for us and described so eloquently yet so simply.
    Now I’m dying to wear my travel boots…Someday

    1. Thank you so much Jyotika, I’m so happy you enjoyed this vicariously. Imagine then how much more amazing it will be in person!! I’m waiting for you to put on your boots too, and share in your excitement, hope it will be soon! Thank you for vicariously coming along, and sharing your thoughts.

    1. Oh No! Anjana!! You’d love it in Kyoto and for that matter, Japan. Romance in places can be well and truly appreciated solo too, for it’s the broader sense of the word, which I refer to in my last para… It’s beauty, legend, mystic, transcending way beyond just romantic love!! And if even that doesn’t get you off, take me with you so I can show you what I mean ? Do put it back on your list?! Besides Japan has a lot of trekking opportunities and is one of the safest countries ?

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