We’re playing a silly game of “build your next ideal travel destination”. He says, “Well, it should be

small of area, but big on feel!”…uhmm…okay… “Should be scenic, outdoorsy, yet a cultural fondue”, he continues. “Should be historic, but also modern…” No pause for a breath, “remote, yet connected… and yes, have a unique identity all her own!” Finally finished he asks, “Tall order?” “Nah!” I grin, “Chiang Mai!”

And Chiang Mai revels in fulfilling every requirement and more…

It all starts off like a fairy tale — in the beautiful mountainous Highlands of Northern Thailand,  a fertile valley cradling the Ping river basin. A 13th century brave King consolidates his strengths, establishes a capital for this Lanna Kingdom. Even while fighting constant invaders, a succession of great kings patronize the arts, architecture and the Lanna culture, so different from the rest of Thailand. In the land of million rice fields (literal meaning of Lanna), their graciousness in dance, ceremony, clothes are centered in tranquility and gentleness.

The charm of Chiang Mai though is not her fairy tale origins, but that she still hauntingly breathes them!

Glimpses of the crumbling city wall, or the well maintained 600-year old moat, or that crinkled old man carving silver jewelry as of old, propel you back to those golden years! Every few blocks there’s flowers everywhere – signs you’re near a temple, some in ruins, many where prayers and the traditions live on.

Yet she’s also a checkerboard of contrariness — hip restaurants, bars, shopping, spas, and so many cafes, even Starbucks dresses up to get noticed! Where the vibe is laid back, but you get

everything you could need (an international airport, 21 major consulates…). So walkable, or just a zip through, using tuk-tuk’s or red taxi’s. People watching here pops the varied corns that make up this mixed bag: casual tourist, monks, students from the sprawling university, digital nomads, local townsfolk and the extended tourist (for many stay on longer than they’d planned!)

Then there’s the amazing outdoors — elephant nature parks, white water rafting, mountain biking, kayaking, and of course trekking! The treks are like poster prints — trails winding into the forested hills, punctuated by streams… maybe some wading elephants (not wild)… The higher slopes engulfed in swirling mists, lure you past some remote tribal ethnic villages (the remoter the better). Many species of birds and wildflowers color the dream true…

But all said and done, the thing that leaves a lasting impression on me, is something else entirely…

On Dec 31st we decide to drive up Doi Inthanon. Oh no! Thousands have had the same idea!

Thailand’s highest peak, Doi Inthanon (2,565m / 8,415 ft), reachable by a good road, is inside a national park. Several camp overnight to usher in the New Year. I’m a bit anxious – a road up the hills, and the young lad of a driver sent as replacement… (even his name was Niu – like “new”!) From the entrance itself, we see endless cars snaking up, long periods at standstill. As we inch higher, the road dwindles into single

lane. The scenery changes too —Doi Inthanon is in the clouds, ethereal! The road’s embankment looks like the edge of eternity, a sea of white puffs beyond.

As we carefully pass other vehicles pulled over, I see the cause of the traffic back up! Selfies!! Cars squeezed in somehow, anyhow,… folks alighting, one arm raised Statues-of-Liberty, taking selfies like it’s going out of style! At first I’m grumpy-amused, but as this goes on for miles, I’m muttering… what the… how

irresponsible,… and why isn’t our dumb driver honking a bleep? That’s when I really notice Niu, barely out of his teens. He’s calm, unperturbed, not swearing, not rolling his eyes… just patient, calmly attentive…!! And a light bulb comes on for me — “mai pen rai”

The meaning of Thailand’s most commonly used expression, “mai pen rai” is elusive – it can vary from “no problem” or “you’re welcome” to being an outlook. In the largely Buddhist Land of Smiles,  forgiveness, and not getting upset are the highest values to

strive for. Not losing your cool is cool. On the roads, honking to express frustration, is considered petty or obnoxious. “Mai pen rai” here can be interpreted as “don’t sweat the small stuff”, or “let it be”. Merely  observing all that Zen in action, I’m calmed, and cease hyper ventilating. And now I’m a fan of our millennial driver, with the patience of a saint — who’d have thought!

When we reach the top at last, it’s resoundingly peaceful. Misty, sublime… Though hundreds of others are around, the mood is hushed. The last Lanna king’s shrine, in a grove in the clouds, is filled with lichen covered trees — nature symbolizing living together in harmony! Being there, is a special experience.

Later, down in Chiang  Mai, another celebration is unique! Hundreds gather by the moat, lighting up

lanterns, with their whispered wishes for the New Year. A full moon smiles on indulgently, as these lanterns are gently let go into the skies. At a temple nearby, the monks are chanting – it feels mesmerizing, peaceful, even for the unpious.

I think back, and think ahead… could I steal a little of this from Chiang Mai? Can I borrow into my frenzied life, with my flimsy resolutions, some of the serenity and patience, and calmness of “mai pen rai”. But Lor’ please understand, all I ask for is patience — not to have it tried! Meanwhile if I lessen even a wee bit, my mutterings and cussings behind the wheel, it’s all thanks to Chiang Mai and our lad Niu!

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